Brazil. Or rather — BRAZIL!!!
A country that knows how to surprise you. Most Latvians who haven’t had the chance to visit in recent years have a pretty misleading picture of the place. No, bandits don’t eat tourists for breakfast, bloodthirsty sharks don’t block the highways, shoals of piranhas don’t drag children underwater, and the president doesn’t keep a harem of kidnapped blonde slaves.
Of course, travelling comes with risks everywhere… even back home in Latvia, being in the wrong place can land you in trouble. Brazil, too, has places where outsiders are better off keeping their noses out. Just like anywhere else.
Overall, Brazil is a major nation with steady economic growth, ambitious plans for the future and a strong cultural identity. There’s a reason experts describe the region as one of the world’s emerging economic powerhouses.
In recent years, crime has fallen sharply, and the streets have been cleaned up, tackling the kind of mess no self-respecting country should tolerate. Brazil hosted the FIFA World Cup in 2014, and the next Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro are just around the corner.
From September until New Year, Brazil’s coast gets some of the most consistent, reliable winds in the world. That makes it one of the most popular destinations for kiteboarding and windsurfing trips at this time of year. Our crew headed there this year too, chasing the good life around the lagoons and beaches of Cumbuco, Taíba, Jeri (Jericoacoara) and Barra Grande. Between sessions, we also took some time out to explore Rio de Janeiro.
Brazil really is a wind powerhouse. At this time of year, the wind has a 100% hit rate. Every day, non-stop, 24 hours a day. Several guesthouses — known locally as pousadas — even offer a money-back guarantee if there’s no wind. But don’t get your hopes up about claiming it — that simply doesn’t happen. Moon phases and the other factors that affect many of the world’s windy spots don’t seem to make any difference here. The wind just blows. That’s normal.
What’s more, you can kite and windsurf both in the waves and in countless lagoons, with the winding coastline and its many sand dunes providing plenty of options. Most lagoons sit at river mouths. Enclosed ones tend to be freshwater, while those open to the ocean are salty. At this time of year, the rivers are practically dry, so the tides do most of the work, pushing seawater in from the ocean.
Incidentally, Brazil’s white sand has been carried all the way from the Sahara Desert by powerful Atlantic Ocean currents. Those same currents are also the driving force behind Brazil’s wonderful winds.
A few useful facts about Brazil:
• Europeans don’t need a visa.
• Exchanging money can be tricky. Your best bet is to do it at the airport when you arrive.
• Leave your light-wind gear at home.
• There are great waves for surfing.
• A usable second-hand surfboard cost our crew €50.
• Domestic flights are expensive, as they’re mostly used by wealthier locals and tourists.
• Prices in coastal towns are roughly on a par with Latvia.
• In November, we needed SPF 50 and SPF 30 sunscreen.
• The air was pleasantly warm, day and night.
• The water was lovely and warm too.
• Leave your wetsuit in Latvia.
• A couple of rash vests and a cap will come in handy.
• Brazilians are quite proud and composed. Nobody hassles you or pesters you in the street. You’ll only get attention when you actually want it. Hard to believe, but true.
• At least half the tourists are Brazilians visiting from other parts of the country. They kiteboard, windsurf and, of course, surf too.
• The water gets much busier at weekends than on weekdays.
• Cards aren’t accepted everywhere.
• In January, the wind gradually eases and a three-month rainy season begins. And it pours like even we Latvians, raised on rain, can barely imagine.
• After the rainy season, the wind returns. You can head back during the Latvian spring.
• Mangoes, papayas, cheese balls, caipirinhas, nuts, fish, pizzas.
• Brazilian food is simple and based on seasonal ingredients.
• Despite having a coffee bean on its flag and producing around 70% of the world’s coffee, finding a decent cup isn’t easy.
• Few locals understand even a couple of words of English or German.
• Sharks and other creatures of the deep generally leave watersports enthusiasts alone. Wading through the mangroves, though, probably isn’t the best idea.
• A buggy costs around €50 a day to rent.
• Buggies aren’t the most reliable vehicles in the world, but they’re unbeatable for getting around on the beach.
• We didn’t notice any mosquitoes, flies or nasty sandflies. There’s all that wind, after all.
• It’s a relatively safe, suitable destination for bringing the kids.
• We didn’t encounter overwhelming tourist crowds or that packed-like-sardines feeling.
• Even if the pousadas you find online are fully booked, finding somewhere to stay once you’re there isn’t too difficult.
• Accommodation that meets a Latvian traveller’s expectations costs around €25–40 a night, including breakfast.
• The further north you travel from Fortaleza, the quieter and more relaxed it gets.
• Typical wind speeds in November are 10 metres per second or more.
And a few tips for Rio:
• If you’re planning to party, learn a few samba moves before you go.
• Rio’s city beaches have good waves for surfing.
• The city has a thriving arts and culture scene.
• Feel free to stroll around the city in your Speedos. That’s completely normal there.
• If you make it to a football match, don’t count on being able to get a beer.
• A photo with Christ the Redeemer is a must for every visitor ;)
• Hardly any tourist goes home without a pair of Havaianas. The locals love them too.
Brazil is far away, but damn, it’s good!
